Caribbean food hasn’t always been trendy. Those who’ve sampled staple dishes of the islands can attest to the joy the delicious flavors bring—but for mainstream America, it can still feel like something unconventional. However, Caribbean cuisines and delicacies are enjoying the spotlight in the culinary world thanks to industry innovators like chef Shorne Benjamin.
Hailing from St. Lucia, Benjamin has made it his business to elevate and modernize Caribbean food. You may have seen some of his dishes on Instagram before, most notably his oxtail grilled cheese and curry shrimp burger, both of which have become viral sensations in their own right. But at his Brooklyn-based restaurant, Fat Fowl, he and his talented team serve up a variety of classic dishes with a twist. The style, aptly named “new-age Caribbean” cuisine by the chef, is shining a different light on beloved flavors.
Rotisserie chickens, sweet plantains, and macaroni and cheese are a few of the staples on the menu. But what sets Fat Fowl apart is his commitment to raising the bar for traditional Caribbean food. The chickens turning in the oven aren’t your average recipe and are alternatively seasoned with a unique lavender spice blend. Instead of rice and peas, you’ll find that quinoa has been swapped in as a healthier grain option. “Before my journey began, there weren’t many high-end restaurants in New York serving Caribbean dishes, and I wanted to push the envelope and bring professional techniques to the food I love.”
Growing up in St. Lucia, the chef credits his grandmother for sparking his passion for cooking. “My journey started with her, and I’d say she was my private chef, though she was adored by the community for her restaurant in Soufrière,” he says. “When she retired, I had the pleasure of enjoying her food exclusively, and growing up with her cooking became a big part of my childhood.”
Even today, elements of his grandmother’s dishes filter into his menu, though there’s always a modern spin. “If I had to choose, I’d pick her braised [or stewed] chicken with green bananas or rice as my favorite meal of all time.” As he explains, chicken—especially BBQ-cooked—is a big deal in the Caribbean, and a version of that has made its way to Fat Fowl’s menu. “I knew I wanted to do BBQ, but it had to be different. Instead of grilling, we do a rotisserie style of cooking and make a tamarind BBQ sauce inspired by St. Lucia. Bringing the fruit into the sauce makes it unique and gives it a more robust BBQ flavor that’s perfect for the chicken.”
However, Benjamin’s passion for modernizing Caribbean cuisine extends beyond his home and embraces the flavors of other islands as well. “I love to travel, and Trinidad has a special place in my heart, so I wanted to devote some of my menu to the food I enjoy there,” he says. “Every island has its own version of curry, and I wanted to create a dish that celebrated the flavors of one of my favorite street foods: curry shrimp roti.” His take, the curry shrimp burger, brings the bold aromas of herbs and Scotch bonnet peppers to a shrimp patty served on a warm brioche bun and topped with a mango pickled slaw, arugula, and a signature curry mango aioli.
Modernizing traditional cuisines is essential to keeping customs alive and recipes from being lost. Burgers, grilled cheese, and herbed chicken are comfort foods that transcend cultures, making them the perfect vehicle for flavors handed down from generations past.
As Benjamin says, rethinking and reimagining a dish to create something new isn’t just important for the culture but also for growth. “I’m always thinking, how can I make this different and have my own identity? The restaurant is an expression of my love for cooking, but with everything I’ve learned, my mission has always been to add a Caribbean accent to the food I put into the world,” he shares. In that vein, he frequently reminds guests of his new-age style. “I always say pardon my Caribbean, meaning this isn’t going to be your traditional Caribbean meal,” he adds. “Yes, we’re drawing from classic spices and flavors, but this is something new, and the goal is to present the flavors that are nostalgic to me packaged in a modern way for everyone to experience and enjoy.”
Widening the reach of Caribbean food has put Fat Fowl on the map and made it a destination for travelers from all over the world. Each dish has intention and is made to be attractive and appreciated by all demographics. “It’s been rewarding for me to see people taste with an open mind about Caribbean flavors,” he says. “It speaks volumes about how universal and influential the food from my culture can be.”
Since braising is one of the prominent cooking methods at Fat Fowl, each dish can develop a depth of flavor in half the time, which is perfect for the restaurant’s fast-casual concept. Bringing more vegetables to the table is another significant initiative of his new-age Caribbean cuisine. The menu boasts a variety of sides, like garlic string beans and charred broccoli, with a sambal vinaigrette that speaks to his push for cook-to-order dishes that are flavorful and healthy.
“My food is a love letter to the flavors I grew up on, but my culinary vision and language as a chef has always been to recreate Caribbean cuisine in a style without boundaries. I’m not trying to cook like your grandmother or mother, but when you try the food for the first time, you’ll know that it’s something unique and that you’ll want to come back for more. ”
Curry Shrimp Burger
Yield: 4 burgers | Prep Total: 45 mins | Cook time: 10 mins
SHRIMP PATTY
1 pound peeled and deveined medium-sized shrimp
1/3 cup of panko breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon of garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon of curry powder
1/4 teaspoon of scotch bonnet pepper sauce
1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon of fresh red bell peppers, diced
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Coarsely chop half of the shrimp. Put the remaining shrimp in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Combine both halves of the shrimp in a large bowl with the rest of the ingredients and mix until well-combined. Refrigerate for 10 minutes, and then form into 4 patties. Refrigerate for 10 more minutes. Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the burgers, about 3 minutes per side.
MANGO SLAW [make ahead]
1/4 head of cabbage (1 cup shredded)
2 medium carrots (1 cup shredded)
1/2 a mango
3-5 thin slices of fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon of whole allspice
1/3 cup champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon of scotch bonnet pepper sauce
2/3 cup of water
1/2 teaspoon of salt
2 teaspoons of sugar
Wash all veggies. Cut the cabbage into thin strips (or use a grater), julienne the carrots and mango, and chop the cilantro. Add the ginger and allspice to a 2 cup jar, along with the cabbage, carrots, mango and cilantro. Leave a 1/2 inch space between the top of these ingredients and the rim of the jar. Combine the vinegar, water, salt and sugar in a small pot, and bring to boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from heat and pour into the jar while still warm, pressing the veggies and fruit down to remove any air. Top with more brine until the veggies and fruit are totally covered. Marinate for at least two hours before use to infuse the flavor and soften the cabbage. Can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 weeks.
CURRY MAYO
1 pot of boiling water (to use as boiler to bloom the curry powder)
1 teaspoon of honey
1 tablespoon of champagne vinegar
2 teaspoons of fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons of curry powder
1 cup of mayonnaise
To bloom the curry, place a stainless bowl over the pot of boiling water. Add the champagne vinegar, honey and lemon juice to a bowl. Once the mixture heats up, whisk in the curry powder until the curry forms into a paste. Remove from the heat. Let cool. Add the cooled curry mixture to the mayo and a little salt to your taste. Refrigerate until ready to use. Can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 weeks.
TO SERVE
Toast a brioche bun in a pan with butter. Add curry mayo to both sides of the bun. Layer, in order, a bottom bun, Boston lettuce (optional), shrimp patty, mango slaw and, last, the top bun. Enjoy!