On the eve of New York Fashion Week, London-based brand Mowalola joined forces with downtown hotspot ESSX for the opening night of their exclusive joint sample sale. Those who attended were given the chance to get first dibs on some of Mowalola’s most sought-after collections, unreleased pieces, and even meet the designer herself in person. Speaking about her latest collection, “Dirty Pop,” Mowalola acknowledged the significant online buzz it generated, thanks to its bold and unapologetic statements that defined the entire collection.
Throughout her collection, Mowalola frequently draws from American pop culture. When she visited New York, it only made sense to host her pop-up at ESSX, a newly launched concept store. Brands like Acne Studios, JW Anderson, and Vetements are sold at the storefront. She nods to iconic black media company Ebony, and the American oil giant Shell, and often incorporates cities like Atlanta and Houston into her designs. Her influence in America is undeniable, even as she continues to draw inspiration from the culture.
“When I grew up, MTV was the [center of] my life,” Mowalola shared. “I learned so much from that channel, whether it be new music orit reality shows or music shows, but [it] was the most exciting thing that I absorbed growing up.”
Although Mowalola didn’t grow up in America, she can still relate to the struggles and challenges of representation as a Black woman (she is originally from Nigeria and attended Central Saint Martins in London). While no major fashion house has appointed a Black woman as a creative director she acknowledges the influence of designers such as Martine Rose and Grace Wales-Bonner. The designer says these two women inspire her. Mowalola acknowledges that she may not fit into their world or perhaps the upper echelons of high fashion, yet she urges those in positions of power to speak up and advocate for Black women to lead fashion houses, as this important issue remains largely overlooked. In turn, the designer continues to inspire the next generation of Black women designers by making her own rules.
“I’m proud of who I am for my younger self because I feel like I’m everything that I never thought could happen in my life,” Mowalola shared with ESSENCE. “I’m teary-eyed now, even just thinking about it.” She goes on to express that she wants Black women to unabashedly go against the grain and do what feels right to them. “I don’t want them to think about other people’s opinions at all. No matter what people say, you’re good and your people are [going to] ride for you regardless, so it doesn’t matter,” she adds.